hey guys ed here with the summers most anticipated installment in our Johnny Five filled his tiptoe mechanism this sub-assembly is an eccentric actuator mechanism that gives Johnny the ability to stand on his tiptoes when he needs to get a better view intimidate enemies or dance to disco tunes when he's finished he will be quite heavy three or four hundred pounds so the parts we'll be making today are all pretty stout mostly made of steel not a whole lot has changed externally since the last time you saw them so let's dive on in and get started making those parts because there are a lot of them like always first parts we'll be making from mild steel on the tormach 0000 m these are his left and right tiptoe arms which link the motion between these eccentric discs to the cam on the tiptoe tube prop one simply decking the backside and drilling some holes that will be used for fixturing in op two for the main op I designed this aluminum fixture that will work for both the left and right hand parts that includes relief for backside chamfering which I didn't end up doing and tapped holes to hold down the stock as well as large waist areas that we don't want flying loose as they're parted off first up profiling most of that is OD profiling but we have a bit of a slot there on that upper waste piece using the three flute dye jet high feed mill from tormach finishing that outer contour with a quarter inch for flute and mill from lakeshore carbide then we can get rid of that waste piece before continuing with the rest of the machining then roughing out this Center clearance area using a 0/00 lakeshore carbide end mill and a 0d adaptive tool pack John also made a pair of these on the UMC 000 and will have a video on that out very soon finishing the flat face surface using the same tool and a 0d contour tool path with roughing passes and stock contours selected cart here - Johnny 0s page on the NYC CNC site where you can check out the speeds and feeds and cam in more detail then using a 0d contour and a ball in the mill to come in and clean up this inside fill it in one pass and I was thrilled with the way that turned out nice quick tool path and an easy way to get a good looking smooth inside finish when you can you'll notice for cleaning up this face I threw on a little strap clamp so I could take out that screw which would otherwise be in the way facing with a facing up just roughly aligned to the angle of that face and finishing the pivot hole using a boring op and now that that's done that screw can go back in and the strap can come off and again adding a couple of these small strap clamps while we slide out this large center section which will accept the eccentric disc again that's the die jet high feed mill with a 0d contour tool path set to ramp finishing that inside profile with a boring up and a quarter inch for fruit and milk roundness on that ended up being great well with NFL last up for these is creating the slot at the tip where the tiptoe cam goes for that all I did was cut a couple of these custom parallels on the laser that will hold the part at the right angle and probe in my work coordinate system off the left side of those these quarter inch aluminum side plates form the structural backbone of the tiptoe mechanism made these essentially the same as I made the boomerang plates on his track drives card here to that video if you haven't seen it yet or need a refresher next up we have a couple of small plate pieces to make for the motor mount the width on this one is nominal I think three inches if I remember correctly so I was able to get away with just holding it in some smooth jaws and cleaning up the saw cut edges this smaller piece was more of an odd size so I just used some of the same stock and slotted the part out window style after finishing the internal features this elevated window machining with tabs is a technique that I'm liking more and more lately as a lazy person I mean as an efficient machinist those tabs are triangular of course next up the eccentric discs these are also mild steel and mount to the large sprockets and make Center Drive [Applause] here using a quarter-inch lakeshore carbide fireplug rougher to slot out the tiptoe cams from quarter inch mild steel sheet that is also a 0d contour tool path set to ramp with tabs and since this has such a large unsupported area using a couple of hockey pucks to dampen vibration those cams attached to the tiptoe tube with these aluminum cam rings also slotted out we just use these three and troilite bushings rather than the slimline ball bearings called for in the original design and the tip tip tube being made of aluminum is far from an ideal bearing surface so we lined the bearing areas on that with roughly one inch wide strips of Turkey which is a brass impregnated Teflon sheet bearing material commonly used for the sliding surfaces on machine tools including tore mocks now over on the haas TM 0p making these mild steel linkages which link the tiptoe cams to the casters upper a-frame these are what transfer that tiptoe motion to the caster end of the robot using our dual station my advices to run hop one on the backside and the fixture for out two on the front side facing the backside at an angle not totally necessary but it ended up making the finished parts look a little prettier which is always nice spotting and drilling the holes which will hold the stock and scrap pieces again for these I slot it halfway down during hop one so I was able to chimp for the back side before flipping the part and finishing the other side for these I'm using a lakeshore carbide roughly quarter inch high feed mill now flipping apart using dowel pins for alignment bolting it to the OP to fixture facing again this time aligned to the contours of the part here I'm using a quarter inch in mill and at both ways 0d adaptive to get rid of a small waist area at the front and I appeared to have made a small booboo with my containment sketch so after a small tweak to that sketch and a trip to the shrink fitting machine we can finish that up and move on to finishing slotting out that part with that high feedmill because we have such a large unsupported area at the middle of this part I modeled in this tab on the top side so that I can finish contour the bottom side of the part add a strap clamp slot off and remove that tab and finish the other half of the contour on the top side and I am of course leading in and out on the curved areas so that helps hide any lead in and lead out witness marks and if I do anything it's an easier spot to blend on the Scotch back bill bump it up up up up up a Poppa assembly montage coming up next time my first five access part which was terrifying but had turned out great and we're continuing our way upward toward his middle and upper torso thanks for watching see you next time
Building Johnny 5 Robot Part 8: Toe Tip!
hey guys ed here with the summers most anticipated installment in our Johnny Five filled his tiptoe mechanism this sub-assembly is an eccentric actuator mechanism that gives Johnny the ability to stand on his tiptoes when he needs to get a better view intimidate enemies or dance to disco tunes when he's finished he will be quite heavy three or four hundred pounds so the parts we'll be making today are all pretty stout mostly made of steel not a whole lot has changed externally since the last time you saw them so let's dive on in and get started making those parts because there are a lot of them like always first parts we'll be making from mild steel on the tormach 0000 m these are his left and right tiptoe arms which link the motion between these eccentric discs to the cam on the tiptoe tube prop one simply decking the backside and drilling some holes that will be used for fixturing in op two for the main op I designed this aluminum fixture that will work for both the left and right hand parts that includes relief for backside chamfering which I didn't end up doing and tapped holes to hold down the stock as well as large waist areas that we don't want flying loose as they're parted off first up profiling most of that is OD profiling but we have a bit of a slot there on that upper waste piece using the three flute dye jet high feed mill from tormach finishing that outer contour with a quarter inch for flute and mill from lakeshore carbide then we can get rid of that waste piece before continuing with the rest of the machining then roughing out this Center clearance area using a 0/00 lakeshore carbide end mill and a 0d adaptive tool pack John also made a pair of these on the UMC 000 and will have a video on that out very soon finishing the flat face surface using the same tool and a 0d contour tool path with roughing passes and stock contours selected cart here - Johnny 0s page on the NYC CNC site where you can check out the speeds and feeds and cam in more detail then using a 0d contour and a ball in the mill to come in and clean up this inside fill it in one pass and I was thrilled with the way that turned out nice quick tool path and an easy way to get a good looking smooth inside finish when you can you'll notice for cleaning up this face I threw on a little strap clamp so I could take out that screw which would otherwise be in the way facing with a facing up just roughly aligned to the angle of that face and finishing the pivot hole using a boring op and now that that's done that screw can go back in and the strap can come off and again adding a couple of these small strap clamps while we slide out this large center section which will accept the eccentric disc again that's the die jet high feed mill with a 0d contour tool path set to ramp finishing that inside profile with a boring up and a quarter inch for fruit and milk roundness on that ended up being great well with NFL last up for these is creating the slot at the tip where the tiptoe cam goes for that all I did was cut a couple of these custom parallels on the laser that will hold the part at the right angle and probe in my work coordinate system off the left side of those these quarter inch aluminum side plates form the structural backbone of the tiptoe mechanism made these essentially the same as I made the boomerang plates on his track drives card here to that video if you haven't seen it yet or need a refresher next up we have a couple of small plate pieces to make for the motor mount the width on this one is nominal I think three inches if I remember correctly so I was able to get away with just holding it in some smooth jaws and cleaning up the saw cut edges this smaller piece was more of an odd size so I just used some of the same stock and slotted the part out window style after finishing the internal features this elevated window machining with tabs is a technique that I'm liking more and more lately as a lazy person I mean as an efficient machinist those tabs are triangular of course next up the eccentric discs these are also mild steel and mount to the large sprockets and make Center Drive [Applause] here using a quarter-inch lakeshore carbide fireplug rougher to slot out the tiptoe cams from quarter inch mild steel sheet that is also a 0d contour tool path set to ramp with tabs and since this has such a large unsupported area using a couple of hockey pucks to dampen vibration those cams attached to the tiptoe tube with these aluminum cam rings also slotted out we just use these three and troilite bushings rather than the slimline ball bearings called for in the original design and the tip tip tube being made of aluminum is far from an ideal bearing surface so we lined the bearing areas on that with roughly one inch wide strips of Turkey which is a brass impregnated Teflon sheet bearing material commonly used for the sliding surfaces on machine tools including tore mocks now over on the haas TM 0p making these mild steel linkages which link the tiptoe cams to the casters upper a-frame these are what transfer that tiptoe motion to the caster end of the robot using our dual station my advices to run hop one on the backside and the fixture for out two on the front side facing the backside at an angle not totally necessary but it ended up making the finished parts look a little prettier which is always nice spotting and drilling the holes which will hold the stock and scrap pieces again for these I slot it halfway down during hop one so I was able to chimp for the back side before flipping the part and finishing the other side for these I'm using a lakeshore carbide roughly quarter inch high feed mill now flipping apart using dowel pins for alignment bolting it to the OP to fixture facing again this time aligned to the contours of the part here I'm using a quarter inch in mill and at both ways 0d adaptive to get rid of a small waist area at the front and I appeared to have made a small booboo with my containment sketch so after a small tweak to that sketch and a trip to the shrink fitting machine we can finish that up and move on to finishing slotting out that part with that high feedmill because we have such a large unsupported area at the middle of this part I modeled in this tab on the top side so that I can finish contour the bottom side of the part add a strap clamp slot off and remove that tab and finish the other half of the contour on the top side and I am of course leading in and out on the curved areas so that helps hide any lead in and lead out witness marks and if I do anything it's an easier spot to blend on the Scotch back bill bump it up up up up up a Poppa assembly montage coming up next time my first five access part which was terrifying but had turned out great and we're continuing our way upward toward his middle and upper torso thanks for watching see you next time
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