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Building Johnny 5 Part 7: Cradle Base & Lower Torso | WW260

Building Johnny 5 Part 7: Cradle Base & Lower Torso | WW260

    hey guys ed here with the latest installment in our Johnny Five bill as you can see we have some catching up to do and he kind of sort of almost looks halfway done but looks can be deceiving because there's still a lot to do today we'll be showing you guys how we made the upper and lower a frames that articulate with the caster during the track tip motion the cradle base which is this lower box between the track drives and the caster the track tip mechanism and some batteries are inside of that and we got a good start on his lower torso the upper a-frame is a sheetmetal box assembly upper and lower panels plasma-cut from stainless and then crudely beat into shape caveman style using whatever I could find to get the job done sides rough cut on the plasma from eighth inch aluminum and finish on our tormach 0000 m+ for those I carefully hand drilled two quarter inch holes so I could use dowel pins to align the rough cut parts with a super glue sub plate then finishing up the upper a-frame with some sanding this Renaissance wax to protect from fingerprints really helps out with the aluminum especially just get those black fingerprints if you're not careful these bearing cups roughly the same as all the others you've seen us make up to this point and then final assembly now onto the lower a frame which is a welded steel tube fabrication first bringing the pivot tube to length on the lathe then using a 0 C block and this angle gauge to notch the side tubes in the 00-hundred m+ last up the rear block needs to be drilled and notched I used some scrap ground stock as split parallels for the drilling otherwise I would run into regular parallels with the drill and angle locks to set the angle for notching unfortunately our welding footage of this didn't turn out but we use this laser cut acrylic jig to hold the tubes in place while tacking make sure to leave a wide margin between the quite flammable acrylic jig and the weld areas just to be extra safe and finished it up with some basic cleanup and a lovely gray powder coat next up the cradle base which is just an aluminum sheet metal box again roughed out the side panels on the plasma and used laser-cut chipboard templates for safe clamp placement [Applause] and final finishing with this manpower brush I've really been liking this on these panels especially it gave a sort of a pseudo fly cut face mill a book for the top and bottom panels I didn't bother ploughing those out since they're rectangular in shape so I'm reusing the unfinished fixture plates you saw us use on the giant Autodesk a0 super glue fixed ring all of the panels for the cradle base and lower torso are held together with drilled and tapped angle iron something like 00 pieces so I took a sliver of inspiration from the way edge precision fixtures his work on his mazak military and made this fixture for the HRT 000 on our ha steam 0p for the fixture I used a piece of 0 inch aluminum round bar with a channel milled out for the angle to rest in and gangue milled these small strap clamps to secure the stock to the fixture poor little Nifty's their confusion I laid out all of these different angle pieces so the clamp position was universal across the few different setups I had this made for really close clearance on a few of the drilled and tapped holes but clearance as always is clearance Clarence we did end up having to make a quick and dirty extension for this 000 tap so small that the welding ended up being the best option I just had chaired TIG weld the little extension I made worked out great it lasted the whole run and is still going strong on other odd jobs we've needed it for around the shop and finish up the angles we're belt sanded and tumbled to deburr and powder-coated as well last up his lower torso which was refreshingly simple compared to some of the other sub assemblies up to this point again plies out the side panels from eighth inch aluminum and finished this time on the 0000 m+ in two setups using the Dow pen grid as reference for work coordinate system and expanding parallels against two dowel pins to easily roughly align the stock along the x-axis and picking up a Dalton bore for the work coordinate system infusion once the front half was finished I was able to move the part and reference the cleaned up edges to the fixture plate to machine the rest of the part and had very little witness marks between the two setups also for the lower torso we had to machine these three inner support pieces I opted to slot them all out from a single piece of stock first adaptive being away a few areas that might make for dangerous loose scrap stock and slotting halfway down flipping the part on a superglue fixture slotting the remaining half depth and finish contouring full depth adjustable parallel to take off that dangling end be part blind the next installment will be focusing primarily on the tiptoe mechanism I'll be making most of that but I'm letting John make some of the more difficult parts on the UMC fingers crossed we'll be able to get that working and see him go up on his tiptoes for the first time under his own power this is the first tiptoe attempt of j0 johnny-five will be alive that's all for now hope you guys enjoyed Johnny and I will see you next time too many words we're starting to get some electrical motion stuff happening here that was it hot again in here this is why I'm not wearing the lab coat I would die are you happy Kris I have some form of badge if ocation now if not hand embroidered on the lab coat this is just for you we love you again pointing with my hand rather than the pointer because mm-hmm it's only six but I still want to go to sleep upper and lower a arms no a frames I'm sure a different part of this robot there's one of everything you can name in this thing today we'll be showing you guys how we made the upper and lower a frames I don't like that noise oh please don't no oh the cradle bass which all of the and we can get some b-roll for this for everyone's be whole whatever we had around whatever I could find to get this thing bent up no it's too much hmm and notch the side too no that's enough that's all you're getting sorry

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